Fancy, fantastic fare at new Israeli restaurant North Miznon

About a year after Miznon stormed into Singapore, its more fancy sister North Miznon opened in Amoy Street to great fanfare.

The last time I ate at the new restaurant was on a Sunday.

The official opening time is 5.30pm - according to its social media pages - but the doors remained closed till 6pm.

A crowd formed.

But instead of the infamous Singaporean impatience, we were all quietly waiting. That, to me, is the best show of how much we really wanted to eat or be seen there.

When you enter, it is like stepping into Europe.

There is a distinct foreign vibe, and not just because the majority of its customers are Caucasian.

There was a wall of candles, a show kitchen and small tables. If music was allowed, it would probably be playing tracks from cult bands.

Even with the current dining restrictions, the place feels cramped and intimate.

Imagine when it is back to normal, we will be on each other's laps. So enjoy this "space" while it lasts.

Just like Miznon, the service is spotty.

It went from super enthusiastic to almost dismissive, and just like Miznon, it does not matter because we are all there for the glorious food.

It is branded as modern Israeli, since the original restaurant is located in Tel Aviv, but labels are reductive.

A lot on the menu is robust and exciting.

RETURN

After my first taste of the hummus with prawns in beurre noisette ($36) I knew I would return for it.

The umami of the sauce hits all the right places. Save some of the free focaccia to sop it up.

And speaking of the bread, it was free flow until very recently, so savour what you have been served.

The star from Miznon makes an appearance here.

The baby cauliflower ($19) is simply roasted with olive oil and sprinkled with salt, and served without anything else. Although there is not much to it, the combined flavour and texture makes this addictive.

Another popular dish is the tomato pasta ($29) but that did not resonate with me.

It boasts a very clean taste with just hand-squeezed Maggie tomatoes from Israel and garlic. I found it boring as I prefer my sauce with more personality.

Also very simply done is the burning yellow potato filled with sour cream topped with a sharp cut salad ($21).

The sweetness comes from the potato and it is beautifully presented, but it is not more than a baked potato and, to me, that doesn't justify the price tag.

But I was happy to pay for the equally simple whole squid ($45).

The roasted squid works because it is a protein that does not need much more to make it lively. And it helps that it is a winner, visually.

Then there is the octopus and potatoes done the Greek way ($30) - another flavourful option that really fills the stomach.

North Miznon does not have a fixed menu, so be mentally prepared that some of your favourites will not be available. And if your reservation is for a later slot, be prepared for things to sell out too.