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Re-imagining Malay cuisine with a side of art

When ordering roti kirai, one would expect folded pillows of lacy pancake served with curry. Just like how a diner would expect to be served green, chewy balls filled with gula Melaka when ordering ondeh-ondeh.

But the roti kirai served by Chef Ilya Nur Fadhly lets a pretty, lacy pancake play second fiddle to a couple of steak pieces. His ondeh-ondeh has all the usual elements but is presented in textures different from what diners are used to.

Launched in December 2022, Sudu by Ilya is a private dining concept that puts a contemporary twist to the traditional Malay dishes in its seasonal menus and aims to give diners a well-rounded cultural experience. 

Malaysian musician Salim Violin provides the background music as diners enjoy their meal at Chef Ilya's flat in Woodlands.

"I don't want people to just come to my home to eat. I want to start a conversation, get them thinking and asking questions," the MasterChef Singapore season 3 finalist told Berita Minggu.

"For example, there is no fish in Sudu's Hari Raya menu. We eat fish a lot but there is no fish in Hari Raya dishes.

"Is it because we were fishermen and we took a break during Hari Raya? This is the kind of conversation I hope my clients would partake in while dining."

Chef Ilya, 38, said the idea for Sudu came after a conversation with a renowned international chef who commented that Malay food is not well-represented in Singapore's rich and diverse culinary culture.

What started out as an experiment grew into source of income for Chef Ilya, who is married and has three children.

Chef Ilya also sells halal bak chang via his Instagram page Chunking.

MALAY FOODchef